Hex Lod by Paul Beel

by Paul Beel: J. Stockard Pro Tyer Team Leader and owner of FrankenFly


This fly was originally designed by Mark Lord of Kingsley, Michigan back in the 1980s. It was designed to actually be used for the big Hex hatch that happens up in Michigan every year. Mark never really gave it a name, he just called it Simple Hex.

But I wanted to do something a little different with this pattern. I do a lot of fishing for smallmouth bass and bluegill, so I knew this fly would be something that could be used for both. I took the liberty of adding a piece of extended foam out from the back of the fly and also added some yellow rubber legs to get some wiggle action happening. I also replaced the yellow body yarn that the original pattern used with some Nature’s Spirit Rainbow Blend Fine Natural Dubbing which added a slight amount of flash to the underbody.
You will notice this is tied on a small J.Stockard streamer hook, but with the polypropylene wings and that piece of foam in the back, it floats beautifully!
I fish this the same way for both smallmouth bass and bluegill. I cast it out and let it sit on the water and then just give a little twitch every now and then to make it look like it is alive. The fish will come and get it!

I am calling this version Hex Lord. I gave this fly a name because I wanted to pay homage to Mark and to possibly help this fly stick in the minds of fly fishers out there. I have no doubt this fly would still work awesome for the trout rising for Hex as well. I really hope fly tiers will give this one a try.

Materials list:

Hook: J.Stockard J2 245 size 6
Thread: Danville 3/0 Monocord or Danville 140 – Yellow
Tail: Round Rubber Legs – Medium Yellow
Extended Body: 2mm foam piece – Tan
Underbody: Nature’s Spirit Rainbow Blend Fine Natural Dubbing – Hopper Yellow
Overbody: Nature’s Spirit Stimulator Deer Hair – Natural
Hackle: Brown and Grizzly rooster or dry fly hackle
Wings: Hareline Polypropylene – white

Tying Instructions:

1. Place your hook in the vise and lay down a thread base across the shank and place your thread near the back of the hook.

2. First place a small bit of dubbing on your thread, making a very short dubbing noodle and wrap that around the shank a few times staying near the barb of the hook.

3. Take 2 yellow rubber legs that are a little more than an inch in length and tie them on each side of the shank and have them hang off the back. After you tie them in they should be about an inch in length. You may cut them a little shorter if you like.

4. Cut a narrow piece of 2mm foam about 1/8″ wide and about a half inch in length. Make sure it hangs off the back flat (see photo) and then tie it down to hold it in place. Cover the foam on the hook shank with wraps of thread so your dubbing will go over it smoothly.

5. Now place some more dubbing on your thread making a longer dubbing noodle. Wrap this up to about 3/4 of the way up the hook shank. Stop and give yourself plenty of room to place the wings and hackle.

6. Now stack a small amount of deer hair in a hair stacker. You are going to tie this in right where you left off with the dubbing noodle. First lay the hair on top and measure by seeing that the tips of the deer hair extend just a little past the bend of the hook. Wrap the butt ends down and while holding on to the deer hair making sure it stays on top of the dubbing you just wrapped, begin making spacing wraps back down toward the bend of the hook. Once you get close to the barb again pull down to make the tips of the deer hair flare. Now start wrapping back up toward the eye of the hook and cross the previous thread wraps with your thread, making crossing wraps as you go. You should end up back at the 3/4 of the shank mark.

7. Now move your thread about 2 hook eyes up toward the hook eye. This is where you are going to tie your wings in. Make sure to leave room for about 2 to 3 wraps of hackle behind the wing and 3 to 4 wraps in front of the wing. Take a clump of Polypropylene Yarn or McFlyLon. This should be the length of two hook shank lengths or a little longer so you can cut it off. Find the middle part of the yarn and tie it in on top of the hook shank. Make figure 8 wraps to make the wing perpendicular to the hook shank. Each side of the wing should be the same length as your hook shank.

8. Now you are ready to tie in your brown and grizzly hackle. Start back at the 3/4 shank mark and tie down the hackle by the tips with the dull side toward the hook bend and the shiny part toward the hook eye. Snip off the excess tips so they don’t get in your way of wrapping the hackle. Start wrapping up and around the wing until you tie it off near the eye of the hook.

9. Once you clip off the excess hackle, whip finish and put a little head cement on your final wraps and you are finished.

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