FOM 1 (2)

FOM May 2017 360x360Fly Tyer: Tim Sickles, J Stockard customer & avid fly tyer

The two-tone stone was devised through trial and error after flipping over a lot of rocks and studying golden stonefly nymphs and Skwala Nymphs. I noticed that while the colors and size of these bugs can really vary, that they almost always have a dark back and lighter colored body, hence the two-tone. I took some inspiration from other proven flies when developing the two-tone, notably Tim Saverese’s knotted leg technique. I’ve found the knotted legs add a little extra movement (and they look cool). Color combinations that I’ve found effective: black/natural hare’s ear (pictured), gold/brown, black on black on black (obviously not two toned).


Hook: Masu S5 #6-12 (#8 pictured) or Partridge CZ Czech Nymph Barbless Hook
Bead: Hareline Plummeting Bead – Matte Black
Thread: UTC 70 denier – black
Wire: UTC ultra wire BR – Copper Brown
Tail: Stripped Goose Biots – Rusty brown
Body 1: Black scud back
Body 2: Hareline dark hare’s ear dub
Wing Case 1: Black scud back
Wing Case 2: Loon Outdoor UV Fly finish – Thin
Legs: MFC Speckled Centipede Legs – grey


  1. Place beaded hook in vise and wrap thread to bend of hook.
  2. Tie in 2 biots about the length of the hook gap much like you would on a prince nymph split into a “vee.”
  3. Tie in the wire and then the scud back at the bend of the hook.
  4. FOM 1 (2)Dub the body with a fairly thick dubbing noodle, we want to build up a reasonably thick body leaving a gap between the body and the bead head (rule of thumb, the gab should be about the same as the diameter of the bead.)FOM 1 (3)
  5. Pull the scud back over top of the dubbed body and stretch just slightly so that the scud back starts to wrap a little bit around the body. Secure the scud back behind the bead, do not trim the excess scud back. Once you’ve secured the scud back, train the dubbing fibers downward, plucking any stray fibers.FOM 1 (4)
  6. Spiral wrap the wire forward to the point where the scud back is secured and tie off the wire at the same point and trim the extra wire.FOM 1 (5)
  7. Pull the scud back so it is laying over top of the body and wrap the thread back to where the thorax will start (where you stopped with the dubbing).
  8. Heavily dub about half of the thorax, the thorax should be about a third larger in diameter than the body.
  9. Knot two rubber legs. The key I’ve found to keeping the rubber legs from coming undone is to tie a standard overhand knot giving it a firm pull, release tension and then pull again. The knot should tighten significantly when you pull it the second time.
  10. Tie in the rubber legs at the half way point of the thorax with two loose wraps, adjust them so that the bent portion of the rear legs is pointed down and toward the hook. Once adjusted, secure the legs with a few tight wraps.FOM 1 (6)
  11. Dub the rest of the thorax. Dub over the tie in point for the legs and in front of the legs up to the back of the bead. Add a little more dubbing and wrap right behind the bead, this will help when tying in the scud back. The rubber legs may require minor adjustment after dubbing the thorax.FOM 1 (7)FOM 1 (8)
  12. Pull the scud back over the top of the thorax and secure directly behind the bead. Whip finish. Stretch the scud back slightly and trip the excess scud back right behind the bead (don’t stretch too much or the scud back may pull free when trimmed).FOM 1 (9)
  13. Apply a small drop of Loon thin on top of the thorax completely covering the scud back and cure with UV torch.FOM 1 (10)
  14. Trim legs to length, approximately half the length of the hook shank.FOM 1 (11)


    1. Hi Tom,
      I’m not sure that Tim Saverese has published his technique for knotting rubber legs. However, it is pretty simple. Take a long piece of rubber legs (longer than you need for the fly) tie a simple overhand knot and pull tight. Give it a second pull to make sure it is secure and the knot will not come undone. After you’ve tied the knot, trim it to roughly the length you need for the fly and tie it in as I have shown in the instructions. Tim Saverese does his stones a little bit different but it is the same concept.

      Hopefully this helps.


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